I got a lot of eggs for Easter. I had huge plans for these eggs. But I didn't manage to get over my inertia (aka the bed and youtube) and ended up with a glut of unadorned eggs. So I've been having quite a lot of eggs the past few days, enough to hold a proper experiment with controls and options. It's okay because I love eggs, especially for breakfast, fried in a sandwich, soft-boiled with soldiers, half-boiled Singapore-style with soy sauce and white pepper, in an omelette (plain and french, or stuffed and slightly burnt), and of course, the breakfast menu must-have-- scrambled eggs.
I put aside my classic standard way of making scrambled eggs and looked at different chefs' idea of perfect scrambled eggs (including a fat-free version which was simply just horrid). In the end, I managed to try permutations of the following conditions:
1. Whisking the eggs together first vs whisking them in a pan
2. Starting in a cold pan vs a heated pan
3. Stirring over very low heat constantly for very long vs over higher heat for shorter
4. Stirring like mad from start to finish vs letting sit/gently folding
5. Adding milk/cream vs just butter
6. Adding milk/cream/butter at the start vs at the end
7. Salting at the start vs at the end
If you do your math that's 2^7= 128 scrambled eggs, if I change only one variable each time. But, no I didn't do it that systematically, I didn't have that many eggs. I have been eating scrambled eggs for breakfast since Saturday though. And the conclusion?
I realise there isn't a way to make the ultimate best scrambled eggs because everyone likes their scrambled eggs different. If you like it really creamy or one might call it runny, you'll like Gordon Ramsay's (1b, 2a, 3a, 4a, 5a, 6b, 7b); if you like quite delicate curds, you'll like Bill Granger's (1a, 2b, 3b, 4b, 5a, 6a, 7a); if you like it more golden and less creamy, you'll like the classic textbook Delia Smith's (1a, 2b, 3a, 4a, 5b, 6 a and b, 7a). Mine goes a bit like: 1a, 2b, 3a, 4a and b, 5a, 6a and b, 7a.
My Best Scrambled Eggs
2 large free-range eggs
1 knob of butter (preferably from local and happy i.e. grassfed/organic cows)
2 tbsp fresh whole milk/cream (preferably from local and happy cows)
pinch of unrefined sea salt
freshly ground black pepper and fresh herbs like dill or chives
1. Whisk eggs together with 1 tbsp of milk/cream and salt.
2. Heat heavy-based pan over medium heat and add the knob of butter. Once almost foaming, do not let brown, add the eggs.
3. Let sit for about 10 seconds, then use a wooden spoon to start lifting and folding from the bottom of the pan.
4. Reduce the heat to low, and then keep stirring until they're just beginning to set, but not set.
5. Remove from heat and stir in the other tbsp of cold cream, and serve immediately. It may look a tiny bit runnier than expected at that stage, but note that it continues cooking a little more in its residual heat.
No matter what, always serve over generously buttered warm toast, my favourite being a sourdough picked up from work at the farmer's market. You need the toast as a bed to cushion and mop up the eggy velvety curds. Scrambled eggs that can stand stiffly on their own for you to actually cut into and scoop from the free breakfast buffet platter onto your plate, are not really scrambled eggs. I'm not being fussy, I like and eat them anyway(:
And now that I've finished the last of my eggs, I need to really get away from lazy "Sunday" brunches every morning of the week. Spring break is almost over, and my to-do-list has a worrying small number of ticks. There's going to be some major changes happening to this blog, if all goes well, this week!