Monday, 14 December 2015

2-minute Noodle Bowls, and a Christmas present from the Japan Food Hall

So, as you can tell, school life did not turn out to be quite that free and easy after all. I haven’t had a breather till this week- my Reading Week before the exams. I’m pretty sure I should be writing about Apple’s competitive strategies instead of noodles; and calculating profit margins instead of teaspoons of soy sauce. In my defense, I really needed a bit of healthy distraction– and a bowl of noodles.

There was a time in my life when literally the only thing I could do in the kitchen was boil water. (I even burnt rice with a rice cooker) Back then, packets of emergency ramen were my late-night guilty pleasure. Cue stereotype of Asian student feverishly studying while slurping cup noodles and then falling asleep in a pile of books and empty plastic tubs. While that is still sort of true, I like to think I’ve progressed beyond instant seasoning packets and takeaway boxes (and falling asleep with dirty bowls).

I make my noodle bowls from scratch, and they take me no more than 2 minutes of active time in the kitchen. They’re my version of fast food–just healthier and tastier. (These quick and easy bowls are also perfect to rustle up when you come home shit-faced from a night out.) Feel free to mix up the ingredients with whatever bits and bobs you’ve got lying in you fridge.

With spring onions and black pepper

The egg is optional if you are in a rush. The only active ‘real’ work involved here is putting the kettle on, pouring the water over noodles, and stirring in miso, probably a minute in total. But if you really do need some form of a recipe…

Serves 1
1 bundle of glass vermicelli noodles
2 cups boiling water
2 tbsp good red miso
soy sauce, to taste
½ tsp sesame oil
1 stalk spring onions
generous pinch of freshly ground black pepper

Bonus topping (make extra for future noodle bowls)
large free range eggs

1. Place glass noodles in a large bowl and pour the boiling water over. Cover and set aside for 10 to
12 minutes, or until the noodles are pliable and translucent.
2. If you’re too lazy, you can just wander off back to your books in the meanwhile. If you’re doing the egg bonus: Place eggs in a small saucepan with enough cold water to cover by about a centimeter. Bring to a boil over high heat and once boiling furiously, turn the heat off and let sit, covered for 6 minutes. Drain and rinse with cold water a few times, tapping the eggs lightly to crack and then letting sit in the cold water until your noodles are ready. Extra eggs can be kept in the fridge once drained.
3. In a separate little bowl, add the red miso and steal a few tablespoons of hot water from your noodle bowl. Stir the miso and water together till you get a smooth runny paste.
4. Your noodles should be done now. Stir the miso solution and sesame oil into the noodles and soaking water. Adjust seasoning to taste with soy sauce, if necessary. Peel and halve the egg and top the noodle bowl with it. Snip spring onions over with kitchen scissors and finish with generous grinds of pepper.


with sprout top ribbons

This is slightly more advanced, in that you actually need a pot, and maybe a chopping board. Basically, boil udon noodles until just cooked; or thin egg noodles if you are really impatient. Throw in some greens* at the same time. Drain, then toss in the simplest concoction of soy sauce and fragrant spicy oils.

Serves 1
1 bundle of dried udon noodles
2 handfuls of sliced greens

for the dressing
1 tbsp good light soy sauce
2 tsp sesame oil
1 tsp chilli oil (or 1 tsp chilli flakes and chuck in more sesame oil)
2 tsp Chinese black vinegar (or balsamic vinegar)

* Sprout tops, spring greens, or cabbage are great here, but if you are really too busy (or lazy) to chop, get a bag of chopped kale. 

1. Bring a pot of water to a boil. Once the water is boiling furiously, drop in the udon noodles. Cook until tender but still springy, according to the package instructions.
2. My thick udon noodles took about 8 to 10 minutes, so I added the greens a bit later, after I’ve given the noodles a 5 minutes head start. Egg noodles will only take seconds, so for those, add the greens first.
3.  Meanwhile, stir together the ingredients for the dressing in a large bowl.
4. Remove the pot from the stove, drain well and then slip straight into the bowl. Toss well with chopsticks so that each strand is coated with the dressing.
p.s. you can also top this with an egg if you were smart and made extra eggs like I suggested.


That’s it, really as easy as it sounds. What I find really important here though, is to get a proper, naturally fermented soy sauce; and for the first recipe, a good tub of miso*. I use Kikkoman most often, but there are lots of good brands available nowadays. It’s not an issue finding great Asian produce in London nowadays– if you live in East London and wander down Mare Street, or you can do it the 21st century way and go online.

I’ve been collaborating with two really great Japanese supermarkets here the past months (read more below), so yes that is another reason the past months have been so hectic. The kind folks at the Japan Food Hall have offered my readers free delivery on all their orders before the year end- so there you go, Christmas present from me: mummyicancookFREEDELIVERY_311215 The Sanuki handcut udon on their site is really worth checking out– seriously beautiful chewy texture and flavour. I use their Hikari red miso too, if anyone’s curious; and only have good words to say about their service.

I guess that sort of rounds up what I've been up to/ eating the past months, and yes it is time to return to the books. Have a very happy gravy-filled Christmas everybody, and I'll report back in the new year with recipes to tackle our post-holiday bellies.


*Miso is one my absolute kitchen staples (I have 4 different tubs at home at any time). For the miso-uninitiated, I wrote a miso primer and a collection of miso recipes for the Great British Chefs and the Japan Centre. There's much much more you can do with miso besides soup:

Oh one last thing, I have something exciting and possibly noodley coming up in the new year. Get on my mailing list for first peeks when it's ready.

Monday, 17 August 2015

My Debut Cookbook, plus a Behind-the-scenes Sneak Peek

Gosh it's been ages. The past months have flown by, a mix of ups and downs and twists and turns that I'm not going to go into. There is one particular thing though, that I have been waiting for the longest time to share and now I'm finally allowed to let this giant balloon of excitement pop.

I've been working on my debut cookbook..! Watch out for Chicken and Rice, published by Fig Tree (Penguin Books), next spring. It will be a collection of Southeast Asian recipes, with a focus on using what's British and seasonal to create authentic home-style/ hawker dishes*. I'll definitely be banging drums and shooting party horns closer to its release but I thought I'll give you all a heads up and a tiny behind-the-scenes sneak peek.

It's been pretty crazy. Weekdays were a crazy juggle of work and late night recipe-writing. Saturday mornings often involved cycling across London picking up ingredients from the markets/ butchers/ fishmongers. Saturday afternoons were spent cooking or heading back out with a grumpy sigh to get whatever ingredient it is I had forgotten again. Sundays were the best. I would gather my friends round and cook up a feast. They were happy recipe testers, guinea pigs and dishwashers, and I'm at my happiest feeding people.

The final Sunday feast took place at my wonderful agent Emily's place. Her partner Pete's a chef and she herself is one hell of a baker. What that bit meant: A massive kitchen (probably the biggest room in her house) decked with every pot and pan and tool you could need, stacks of cookbooks, and rows of Japanese handcrafted knives hanging neatly on the wall. We also had a great outdoor wood fired oven and little charcoal barbecue in the garden to work with, i.e. my dream come true.

I roped in Sean, my partner-in-crime when it comes to cooking, gardening, foraging or just eating really, and we lugged our mortar and pestles to Emily's early in the morning. I'd left all the barbecue recipes to the end so that we could have a giant smoky feast in summer. The menu was an ambitious one: minced pork stuffed squid with dill nam pla prik, Nyonya grilled quails, sticky soy sauce wings, corn on the cob with Thai basil butter, Malay chopped herb rice, kohlrabi som tum, and coconut sticky rice for dessert. I was a little bit stressed to say the least; the worst part being that I had to look my best with smoke billowing in my face. Susan the photographer was a genius though, and she managed to snap photos of me before I could freeze up awkwardly.

My friends arrived soon after in a merry noisy hungry gaggle, beer bottles in hand. I did finally relax, especially once the food was out and the rain (yes, damn it England) cleared up. It was just like any other Sunday after all– good food, good friends and lots of messy finger licking. And book or not, this was always what cooking was about to me.

Anyway yes that's the good news. The final manuscript's off to the editors, there's much more to go of course, but I'll be watching from the sidelines. I have my weeknights and weekends back so hopefully I can start dusting the cobwebs off this space– the lil' ol' blog that started it all. Who would have thought? :)

A big thank you to Emily (and Pete) for lending us your home and for pulling me into this madness in the first place. To Anna and Juliet my patient food-obsessed editors, and to Alison the designer and the rest of the design team (please make my book beautiful). To Susan and co. for driving from Brighton on a Sunday with gigantic cameras. To Sean the man. To my favourite people for volunteering their stomachs.

All the beautiful photos i.e. first group photo, photo of me dishing up som tum, and my hand reaching for more chicken wings are by Susan Bell. The other hasty iPhone shots from me/ friends.

Related reads:
*A rant on authenticity, and recipe for Kohlrabi Som Tum

Will be keeping the mailing list updated, sign up here if you like!

Tuesday, 14 April 2015

Homemade Condensed Milk, and The Easiest No-Churn Rhubarb Ice Cream

I have lived in London long enough to not trust that first day in March when it is irrationally warm. I watch out instead for wild garlic in the fields and the first pink stalks of rhubarb in the markets. For me, the appearance of the earliest spring vegetables is the best indicator that the worst of the miserable months are over.

I got a tip off that the wild garlic's started, so last weekend consisted of a hike round the Heath with Sean (my favourite and only foraging partner), his super dog, and a new friend, fashion blogger Melody. We got back muddy (I'm sorry Melody) and starving, so we easily destroyed in minutes a whole wok of vermicelli fried with shiitake mushrooms, omelette strips and the freshly picked wild garlic. She had her big camera (again, sorry for the mud) and wrote a beautiful blog post about it so you can hop over to hers for more photos.

The next best thing about the change of seasons is the candy pink stalks of rhubarb. With that, I made ice cream (the third best thing about sunnier days).

This is the easiest ice cream you can make. There is no need for a fancy ice cream maker, or an alarm set at 20-minute intervals reminding you to hand-churn the mixture. The secret is condensed milk – a pantry essential in many Asian kitchens. The resulting ice cream might not be as perfectly smooth as a liquid nitrogen-blasted gelato, but it is good– wonderfully rich, creamy, and versatile enough to take on most flavours. It is quite sweet so I usually go for something tart as a contrast. Rhubarb is perfect now, but peaches and berries will be great in the later months.

serves 4-8
2 stalks rhubarb
1 tbsp organic butter
2 tbsp unrefined light brown sugar
600ml organic double cream
1 tsp pure vanilla extract
200ml organic condensed milk*

1. Chop up the rhubarb into small pieces. Cook with butter and sugar over medium heat, stirring once in a while, until the rhubarb is tender. Let cool.
2. Put the double cream and vanilla extract in a large bowl, and beat with an electric whisk until you get stiff peaks. Stir the condensed milk into the cooled rhubarb. Gently mix in a quarter of the whipped cream, then fold in the rest, until well-combined.
3. Pour into a loaf pan and cover with cling film. Freeze until firm, about 6 hours. For easy serving, take out and leave in fridge for 20 minutes or so before scooping.

*When I was in California last year, one of the most amazing discoveries I made was that you can get organic condensed milk at their insanely huge Wholefoods stores. In which case, please don’t waste your time with the following recipe.


Condensed milk is the sweetener of choice for many beverages, like Malaysian teh tarik and Vietnamese iced coffee. In many parts of Asia, where fresh milk is expensive or difficult to come by, condensed milk is seen as a wonderful shelf-stable solution. It might seem silly then, that I am writing a recipe for making your own condensed milk. However, if you, like me, are after the creamy caramel sweetness of condensed milk rather than its cheap convenience, it is definitely worthwhile making your own additive-free version, using milk from healthy cows. 

makes about 1 cup
500ml organic whole milk
200g unrefined light brown cane sugar
1 tbsp organic butter

1. Combine the milk and sugar in a saucepan, and bring to a steady simmer. Lower the heat so that it is barely simmering, and let cook for about 2 hours, stirring occasionally to prevent the milk from forming a 'skin' on top.
2. Stir the butter into the reduced milk mixture, before letting it cool completely. It should thicken further. If a 'skin' forms as it cools, simply lift off and discard. Pour into a clean jar and store in the fridge for up to 2 weeks. Drizzle over toast/ add into coffees, teas and ice cream of course.

Sunday, 8 March 2015

'Agak Agak' Glass Noodle Salad with Roast Pork Belly

Sorry for the silence, the past month has been a mad non-stop string of projects and flights. I was in Singapore the past couple of weeks for Chinese New Year and a much-needed breather. As with all my visits home, I was treated like a little princess and fed like a rather large king. The attention from my parents have been almost embarrassing, but I can't deny I haven't enjoyed every moment of it. I wake up to the smell of mum frying vermicelli with garlic chives and last night's leftover braised pork, and go to sleep happy with slow-brewed tonic soup in my tummy.

In a bid to be less of a pig, I've been trying to learn more recipes from Mum, but eventually, I gave up trying to get cooking times and quantities from her. Instead I just watched. And smelt. And tasted.

At the heart of all Asian home-cooking, is a spirit of 'agak agak' (estimation). A recipe from my aunt might look something like this: Chicken – depends how much you want to eat; shallots– 10 to 20, depending how much chicken; chillies – to your tolerance level; sugar – if you like it sweet, add more.I used to fuss a lot about getting every part of a dish perfect, but now, I've found myself cooking more and more like the older women in my family– relying less and less on tablespoons and timers.

Cooking is a lot more fun and creative when you aren't restricted to a set ingredients list and method. Some of my best meals have been made from the sorry bits I discover in a late night fridge forage. A recent NY Times article on reducing food waste also made a pretty good point: A lot of kitchen waste comes from people blindly cooking from a recipe– so learning to cook intuitively also works out to be more sustainable and friendly on the pocket. As much as I love flicking through cookbooks and poring over recipes on the internet, I think every home cook should learn about techniques, flavours and ingredients, and aim to get to the point where they are comfortable enough to cook intuitively from what they have.

And with that said, here is an 'agak agak' recipe for a Thai-style glass noodle salad yum soon sen – this one, a glorious mess of leftover roast pork belly, shredded rainbow carrots, cucumbers, and fresh herbs. 


2 bundles of dried glass noodles 

large handful of crunchy vegetables
  rainbow carrots, julienned
  cucumber, julienned
small handful of fresh herbs
  Thai basil leaves 
crunchy stuff 
  roasted peanuts
  leftover crispy roast pork belly
  fried shallots

  1-2 tbsp fish sauce
  lime juice (about 2 limes)
  urefined palm or light brown sugar
  small handful dried shrimp
  thinly sliced shallots
  chopped bird's eye chillies, to tolerance level

1. Pour boiling water over glass noodles, cover, and let soak till the noodles are pliable and turn translucent. You can pinch a bit off to test the texture- it should be soft but slightly chewy. Drain and refresh in cold water.
2. Stir together the fish sauce and lime juice. You might need more or less fish sauce depending on the brand and age of your bottle and how juicy your limes are. Taste, then add the sugar. It should lead with sour, followed by salty, and should not taste sweet at all; the sugar is only there to round out the flavours and take away some of the heat from the chillies. Add the dried shrimps and chillies, crushing them lightly with a pestle or something heavy. Taste and adjust again as the dried shrimp can be quite salty. Finally, add the shallots; the acidic dressing will take away some of the raw sharpness.
3. Combine the glass noodles, vegetables and herbs pour the dressing over. Toss well and let stand for at least 15 minutes for the noodles to absorb the flavours before serving. Mix in the crunchy stuff just before serving, so they stay crunchy. Crush/ sprinkle with extra peanuts and herbs. 

You can definitely play around with the ingredients – look into your pantry, fridge and/ or garden. What you're creating is your own perfect balance of flavours (sour and refreshing lime, salty pungent fish sauce, and just enough chilli heat to wake you up) and textures (slippery noodles, crisp vegetables and fragrant crunchy things). 


On my trip back to Singapore, I also visited Super Farmers, an old friend Cynthea's urban farming and cooking startup. We made a very similar noodle salad, but played around with local greens, pickled some foraged sour fruit, and infused the sauce with crushed herbal flowers. She wrote a little blog post about that if you're curious.

For my ultimate crispy roast pork belly recipe, get on the mailing list!

Related reads
Super Farmers Blog: Foraging with Shu
NY Times: Starve a Landfill (Efficiency in the kitchen to reduce food waste)

Other simple agak agak recipes
Wild Green Pancakes and Any Flower Syrup
Kohlrabi Som Tum
Bittergourd Fish Noodle Soup, and what I learnt about 'perfect' soups in Hanoi
Chinese steamed eggs

Friday, 30 January 2015

'Vegan, Gluten-free' Kale Fried Hor Fun, and my 2 cents on diets

I planned this to go out at the start of January, when words like 'detox', 'diet' and '(insert latest criminal ingredient)-free' are flying around. Work caught up with me though, so here I am posting this at the end of the month, hopefully when people are starting to falter a little bit on that perfect New Year New You diet.

I am a big health freak, though many of the green-juicing, bike-cycling ashtanga yogis out there would probably raise an eyebrow at the way I eat. (No offence, I do all of the above too.) We can generally agree that those who survive mainly on fast food, takeaways, and microwaveable meals could improve their eating habits. But beyond that, things get confusing. I don't think I've admitted it on this blog yet, but like many health-obsessed teenage girls out there, I've yo yo-ed through a few of these diets myself. There was a period in my life when I was experimenting with the 'healthiest' way to eat and I have done them all– from paleo to raw vegan–and only ended up unhappy, unhealthy, and hungry for whatever it was I was cutting out. It took me a while to end up back at square one, eating the food that I grew up with. I eat everything now and most of all, I love what I eat.

It's because I love food so much that I insist it should come from a real source, made or grown by people who actually care about it; and if it does come off a shelf (still need my fish sauce and rice noodles #asian), to have real ingredients and as little ingredients as possible. Beyond that, there are no hard rules. I've rambled more about how I aim to eat most of the time when I first started the blog (and when I was more anal) on the How to Eat and Golden Rules page, if you can stomach it. But there are days when I just need a fat slice of chocolate cake and that's fine; because stressing out about unhealthy food is more unhealthy than just eating it.

Before I go on, I would like to say I'm not pushing for an ideal way of eating. I have plenty of friends who don't eat meat, friends who don't eat carbs, and friends who don't eat beyond 500 calories two days of the week– and I've eaten some great food prepared by them. I think there are lots of great takeaways from all diets, but I don't subscribe to the idea of restricting calories and/or any food groups. I do think everybody's body is different and it's up to you to work out what makes you feel best.

This fried hor fun recipe was something I made for an Indian friend who's grown up vegetarian due to religion. It was through her that I learnt a lot about natural sources of plant protein from vegetables like kale and sprouted/ fermented beans (during my vegan phase). It is gluten-free and vegan but I would rather not think of it as such. It was delicious. And that was it.

with chill and miso
Serves 2
300g fresh hor fun (fresh flat rice noodles)
1 bunch of kale
2 handfuls of beansprouts
1 tbsp chilli garlic paste (see below)
1 tbsp white miso 
1 tbsp good, naturally fermented soy sauce
2 tbsp kecap manis*
3 tbsp groundnut oil
4 shallots, minced
1 tsp sesame oil

1.  Rinse the hor fun and drain well. Rinse the beansprouts and if you can be bothered, trim them.
2. Combine the miso, chilli garlic paste, light soy sauce and kecap manis.
3. Heat the oil in a wok until smoking hot then add the shallots to fry, stirring quickly to prevent them from burning. Once fragrant, add the hor fun and kale and stir-fry for a few minutes, till the kale just begins to wilt. Pour in the seasoning mixture and stir well to make sure everything is well-coated with the sauces. Continue stir-frying for 4-5 minutes till the noodles are lightly charred.
4. Add the beansprouts and sesame oil and give everything a few final tosses to combine. Cook for another minute or so; the beansprouts should still be crunchy. Serve immediately.

*This is sweet dark soy sauce. The range available here is very limited and most of them have nasty additives. I cracked it by combining equal quantities of good soy sauce and molasses. 


This is a good one for the pantry. I make loads and use for cooking/ dipping.

makes about 1/2 cup
150g red Serrano chillies
4 cloves garlic
1 1/2 tbsp white rice vinegar
big pinches of salt
2 tbsp unrefined brown sugar

Place all the ingredients in the food processor and pulse till you get a coarse texture. Smell it right now- it should make you cry. Bring everything to a boil in a pot, then lower the heat to a gentle simmer and cook for about 5 minutes or until it no longer smells raw. Season with salt and sugar, adjusting quantities to taste. Let cool, then pour into jar or squeezy bottles. Keeps for a month in the fridge.

There is a version of this in every Asian country– fresh rice noodles, tossed into a wok with aromatics and a blend of salty, sweet and sometimes sour and spicy sauces. Instead of using tamarind/ fish sauce (a la pad thai), or oyster sauce (ala the Cantonese), I've gone for a combination of fermented soy sauces/ paste.

This recipe is incredibly versatile, what I like to think of as a 'base recipe'. Come summer I'll probably swop the kale for sweet sugar snap peas and beans. You can also change things up by using sambal tumis belachan instead of chilli garlic paste. On days when I feel like some meat, I'll add thin slices of pork shoulder or beef to the dish, marinated first in the seasoning mixture with a little dash of rice wine. I might even fry this with a healthy dose of lard. And it will be no less 'healthy' or delicious. 

More health reads
How to Eat (listen to your mummy)
My Golden Rules (how I aim to eat mostly)
Detoxing is a myth (via Guardian)
Saturated fat is healthy (via Independent)